I see the fridge for Bud Lite, and the one for Miller Lite, but what's the third one for?
All of those friges are good for is scrap metal, I knew a guy that liked to drink hot beer, he would.buy a six pack of beer and put it in the trunk.of his car to warm it up in the July heat. Crazy lol
Sealing up the aileron bays to keep bugs out of the wing. The foam is dollar tree foam board that is popular with model builders. The paper has to be removed , with the paper removed the weight added will only be in ounces.
Am ready to add the last piece of ply on the aileron d-cell. I think that will be the finish for all the wood working. I feel there is pre April fools day joke hidden trying to get me.
Each wing panel with ailerons weigh 32 pounds each. Looks like.I won't make.the weight the gov thinks it should be, eff em! Next step is to make the brackets that attach the stab to the fuse.
Started to attach the tail to the fuselage. Got one attachment bracket made. I have a suspicion I am gonna come out slightly tail heavy unless I remove weight from the tail. A tiny amount of weight at the tail equals alot more at the nose to balance out. The elevator trim tab weighs 11.2 ounces I think I will make the trim tab out of 1/8" mahogany ply.
I ended up being tail-heavy too... both me and the aircraft...LOL Seriously, I had to put a battery up under the engine just to compensate. 10# of wasted weight. I'm going to try the Razor Scooter tailwheel someone mentioned and see what that does.
I'd say ditch the trim tab. It's a luxury. My Max didn't have one on it when I bought it, and I considered putting one on it, but decided to fly it a while, and see if it's needed. Some 70 hours later I'm convinced it's not needed. I remember seeing Wayne Ison working on a trim tab option, not because it was needed, but because people were asking for it. If after the first few flights it's determined that stick pressure is needed to fly level, then install a fixed trim tab. This is just my opinion. I'm sure that there are others out there who love their trim tab.
A controllable trim tab might save your butt if you have a failure of the elevator control cable. It depends on the nature of the failed cable, if it jams then not so much; but if it some how becomes disconnected the you might have a chance with a controllable trim tab. Just my 2 cents.
A controllable trim tab might save your butt if you have a failure of the elevator control cable. It depends on the nature of the failed cable, if it jams then not so much; but if it some how becomes disconnected the you might have a chance with a controllable trim tab. Just my 2 cents.
That is exactly why I want a controlled trim tab, if the cyclic fails on my gyroplane I am a dead man. If the push pull cables fail on my himax I would still have rudder control and elevator control via trim.
Heres the new trim tab varnished and painted. Saved a couple ounces. If I can get the airplane to balance without the starter motor, battery I will test fly it like that and run the gauges off a lipo battery. The mgl airspeed/vsi with the bigger screen still isn't in stock. Hoping for a hop by july
On the homestretch. 95 percent finished 100 percent to go. Solid aluminum strut attachment blocks installed. Got the "cable angle" installed almost forgot the wood blocks, not sure what these are for the bracket the elevator cable attaches to is installed with four an3 bolts
Got the "cable angle" installed almost forgot the wood blocks, not sure what these are for the bracket the elevator cable attaches to is installed with four an3 bolts
They're cleats meant to increase the shear strength of the pilot restraint system. The bolt holes in the longerons have only a bearing strength of 1847 lbs. The cleats might react up to 8100 lbs of pull on the restraint harness cables.
Thanks Bob my harness attaches to the rear spar channel rember I am building a himax. If the shoulder belt is attached to low it will compress your spine in a crash. Got two aileron actuators built. The plans say the bolts can be tak welded in place. I epoxed mine after roughing up the metal.
Thanks Bob my harness attaches to the rear spar channel rember I am building a himax. If the shoulder belt is attached to low it will compress your spine in a crash. Got two aileron actuators built. The plans say the bolts can be tak welded in place. I epoxed mine after roughing up the metal.
Right! The blocks are a remnant of the 1100 plans no doubt and not necessary on the 1700.
had a nice warm day so I got both ailerons varnished this evening. No way I am gonna inhale that crap in a garage. I used minwax spar varnish in the rattle cans, its expensive compared to brushing it on but its faster and you can get all the nooks and cranies.
Removed all the steel fittings from both wings for paint, I'm going to leave all the aluminum bare after a little polishing.
Started attaching the aileron hinges and the aileron actuators. When you buy the blind nuts you don't get any screws luckily I was able to scavenge from my rc box and used some micro servo screws. Got the tailwheel cleaned up just need to buff it out and paint. Next step is to make up the control assembly, run the rudder wires. That july hop is looking more real now ready to put some air under them bones.
Your build has been a huge inspiration for me to keep pounding away at mine. I might not reply a lot but I love seeing every picture posted on here. Makes me want a HiMax..
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I think I will make the trim tab out of 1/8" mahogany ply.
