The servo I am talking about is not for models. I have a friend that that has a HiMax and he has one. His aircraft is registered experimental and he also has electric start and other bells and whistles and he runs a 447. I used a long choke cable on mine for a while till I found the best angel for cruise and the  put on a fixed trim tab and removed the cable and hand control for weights sake . I think that Aircraft Spruce sells the servos.

I'm actually developing some custom servos for my Max's trim tabs, I know your pain.

Nice build and progress.

Can you post a close up of the wing drag strut rear joint to the spar cap.

This joint has been neglected and not shown in the drawings.

Thanks

KK

Quoted from mullacharjak

Nice build and progress.

Can you post a close up of the wing drag strut rear joint to the spar cap.

This joint has been neglected and not shown in the drawings.

Thanks

KK

Cleaning up the nose and building a box for the earth x lithium battery.

If I run into cg issues with the tiny hirth engine,my first solution is to shift the two biggest masses forward, my fat a$$ and the engine. Never add weight just move it around.

Video of my hirth f33 on my skypup. The skypup needs the redrive up for ground clearance. Unfortunately it caused my engine to burn up
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vFfyprQIvDU

Thanks. Some ideas are not highlighted in the plans as they should be specially for a beginner.

For example your solution of making a thicker stepped forward root rib upright to clear the 2024 T4 root fitting and ply doubler and leaving the gusset off in this area till

later.


KK

I found a.strobe/ landing light that will fit neatly under the battery compartment. Weighs less than 8 oz its not faa approved which means it will work out OK.

Got the nose cleaned up and the landing light/ strobe installed.

For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=htqs9frOdo8

Got the nose finished up along with the battery compartment. Finishing up the leading edge wrap on the last wing.

I got another crazy idea, not sure if it has been tried but a very simple cabin heat system using the engine itself instead of the exhaust to pump hot air into the cabin. My idea would probably work best with a nose cowling, the flow of heat could be controlled with a slide damper. Maybe this deserves a separate thread, I am familiar with cabin heating on liquid cooled engines and using the exhaust but that just adds weight.  

Strobes, landing lights and global warming !
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=X0jakR886Fo

Got the last wing panel leading edge sheeted.   Was a hint of spring in the air, got up to 60 degrees today so I fabricated both of the wing strut attach blocks and temporarily got them in place for drilling. I also found a light weight paint scheme that I liked after searching through the old forum.  

Wayne ison approved for aerobatics! Just kidding, or am I

I did have a brief moment where I thought I should wear a shute and leave the door off so I could jump out, it turns out I don't care about your feelings, build your own airplane.

The tiny hirth motor!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jJHoNnnjrEw

wow! you going UL?

Quoted from PUFF

wow! you going UL?

gonna try!

Maybe I should elaborate more. I weigh 170 lbs butt naked, 28 HP is plenty of power, my religion forbids me of giving my hard earned money to a gov that is hell bent on denying me my god given rights.

Quoted from 509

Maybe I should elaborate more. I weigh 170 lbs butt naked, 28 HP is plenty of power, my religion forbids me of giving my hard earned money to a gov that is hell bent on denying me my god given rights.

100% agree. Anyway I can avoid giving those tyrants money is a good way.

Nice build thread. Looks great. ETA on completion?

I was scared my comments would disturb a unseen hornets nest! My airplane will be flying this summer! Proud buzzard and not afraid to show err!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-UG2xVExfu8 buzzards behaving badly!

The beaky buzzard is coming along I still have the original prop from the burnt up hirth f33 but didn't have a crush plate and me being a cheap azz I just built my own. I built wood inlays where the lexan will attach. The side lexan will be left off until shorts wearing weather is over. Here is a picture of the hirth f33 with dellorto carb. To adjust the belt tension a threaded boss is screwed into the center of the redrive, one bolt is loosened and because the redrive is threaded into position and the threads are off center, when you turn the boss it tightens the Belt. The hirth f33 is happiest with bluemax oil at 90:1 and 90 octane fuel.  Don't run the redrive towards the cylinder heads like I did on my skypup which will lead to overheating

I have that same redrive cooling issue, so I have to build some kind of baffle system to direct air at the engine.  Nice that you can just flip yours over!

Quoted from ITman496

I have that same redrive cooling issue, so I have to build some kind of baffle system to direct air at the engine.  Nice that you can just flip yours over!

What engine are you using? Maybe I can help you out.

"Don't run the redrive towards the cylinder heads like I did on my skypup which will lead to overheating"

My engine looks just like yours.  I don't want an overheating problem but I don't understand what mistake you made.  Would you explain more, please?

This is my old.skypup sold to to a guy a California. It has the rotax 277 but I had a hirth mounted, for ground clearance purposes the redrive had to be mounted so it was blocking the cylinder heads. Killing the airflow to the cylinder. The sky pup didn't last long in the new owners hands, chasing space ballons was the goal now its chasing dust!

I'm using a Kawasaki 440A, with the re-drive upwards blocking the engine.  My current plan is to turn that curved section of fuselage under the engine into a scoop and then sealing off all exits except going through the fins and then out the back of a step (to induce vacuum from the passing air) to suck it out.  

I think I understand.  The photo of the Hirth that you posted on February 11 shows the propeller hub powered by a belt drive mounted lower than the cylinder, so the prop wash will cool the cylinder.  If I install my Hirth the same as your photo, I should be safe from the overheating problem.  Is that correct?