Got the nose ribs installed on one wing along with the stringer. Went ahead and ordered the mgl engine monitor and a yaesu radio, mounting ideas are welcome on that
Looks like you're moving right along. About time to do the leading edge wrap. I had a friend help with the wrap process. Lots of glue to spread and it's really helpful to have an extra set of eyes and hands to assure good alignment while clamping and banding things into place. We did one section at a time. I think my friend was about as happy as I was when we had the last section done.
Looks like you're moving right along. About time to do the leading edge wrap. I had a friend help with the wrap process. Lots of glue to spread and it's really helpful to have an extra set of eyes and hands to assure good alignment while clamping and banding things into place. We did one section at a time. I think my friend was about as happy as I was when we had the last section done.
Lynn
Thanks Lynn I think your making things sound hard. The hardest part was bringing the nose of the fuselage together. Himax flying video will be this summer. Thank for the comment my friend.
I prebent the first leading edge wrap by wetting the ply then clamping to the leading edge. After drying I wet the ply again and put weights on top prebending even further. I do have one question, where the strut attach fittings go near the middle of the wing I assume you just cut a slot for the fittings and big enough to get a wrench in to tighten the bolts?
I'm at the same stage as you and also wondered about the strut mount bracket area. I cut out a slot just big enough for the bracket but hadn't considered making it bigger to access the bolts. I'll be interested to see and hear what others have done.
Got more of the leading edge wrap done, got all the wood that will be "under wraps" varnished and did a little more instrument work. If your a nerd like me I love this part of the build.
Got the first section of leading edge sheeted, I used a little more epoxy than I thought I would need, wing panels will probably weigh near 30 pounds when finished.
After running the numbers I knew I have would never make part 103 with the 277, so I made the sin of buying the same engine that let me down twice in random pastures. The hirth f33 with electric start. To be honest I ran the redrive in the up position blocking a lot of the cooling to the cylinders.
I would be interested in hearing a few more details about your experiences with the Hirth f33 cause I am interested in installing one in my 1100R. I have a 447 currently it works fine but I do not like the fact that Rotax has left us high and dry regarding the smaller two strokes.
I would be interested in hearing a few more details about your experiences with the Hirth f33 cause I am interested in installing one in my 1100R. I have a 447 currently it works fine but I do not like the fact that Rotax has left us high and dry regarding the smaller two strokes.
Things have changed a lot since I was 25 years old and bought a used hirth f33. Basically I bought a used hirth f33 block with no muffler, redive or carb.all of the metal on the engine was soft , the spark plug threads stripped out, the cylinder head bolts stripped out and the PTO shaft that the small pulley attaches to stripped out. This was a used engine so I don't know the history. The engine ran really hot with the redrive in the up position, blocking the cooling air to the engine. Amazingly I put around 25 hours on that engine on my skypup. Fuel burn was 1 gph on the pup. I trust hirth has now fixed their past problems.
Using a 45 degree inclinometer as your slip ball is probably not sensitive enough, you'd be plastered against the side before getting a reading . I think normally the slip ball is about 10 degrees.
Got one of the wings le almost sheeted. I have started a thing on my youtube page called classic autogyro footage. Basically its videos from vimeo and old YouTube videos that people have never seen.
got one of the wing panels leading edge sheeted, can't start on the other wing till the weather warms up, to spray the polyurethane, supposed to be in the mid 50's this week so I can get it done then. hopefully I will get my engine next week.
Been to cold to do any gluing, if your elevator cable ever fails, you will want a trim tab that you can work from your cockpit. I would suggest your elevator trim work the same way your elevator works. When you pull back on your elevator trim, your trim tab should go "down" forcing the elevator up
If you are going to run a battery (?) you might consider a servo for the trim tab. It might be lighter.
You know i hadn't thought about that The wire runs to the servo would save alot of weight over the bowden cables. I would prefer all mechanical surfaces, I have had alot of servo gears strip on my model airplanes. I should be able to make weight with the hirth as long as I don't go nuts with the paint. Heres the elevator trim tab finished up.
Logged
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I should be able to make weight with the hirth as long as I don't go nuts with the paint. Heres the elevator trim tab finished up. 
