Covering is a huge step! I found it rewarding and enjoyable! But I wasn't cover a work of art like yours!!! Now rib stitching.... well that was up there with varnishing!!! Once the plane is covered it is such a huge step! It make one realize how close you are to flying her!! Great work! Brian
Covering is a huge step! I found it rewarding and enjoyable! But I wasn't cover a work of art like yours!!! Now rib stitching.... well that was up there with varnishing!!! Once the plane is covered it is such a huge step! It make one realize how close you are to flying her!! Great work! Brian
Brian, covering is still month away, as I am intending to do the whole Max in one go... and I am terrified of rib stitching! Reto
On the "gusset machine": This is the sort of thing that saves huge amounts of time. My opinion after years of shop work: Don't go out and by a large number of fancy tools you might need, unless you have money to burn, but every time you think of a tool or jig that will make a job go faster or better, don't hesitate just buy it or make it. Tools save so much time that trying to "save money" by not buying them isn't really the cost effective solution.
Just think how much time Reto saved by making a simple gusset bevel cutting jig.
Reto, rib stitching is pretty simple one you memorize the knots.
You do need a curved needle to get around the compression members, I made my own using some music wire, hammering one end flat then drilling a hole in the flat spot.
On the "gusset machine": This is the sort of thing that saves huge amounts of time. My opinion after years of shop work: Don't go out and by a large number of fancy tools you might need, unless you have money to burn, but every time you think of a tool or jig that will make a job go faster or better, don't hesitate just buy it or make it. Tools save so much time that trying to "save money" by not buying them isn't really the cost effective solution.
Just think how much time Reto saved by making a simple gusset bevel cutting jig.
Tom
Tom you are absolutely right... I lost quite a lot of time with manual repetitions... Reto
Reto, rib stitching is pretty simple one you memorize the knots.
You do need a curved needle to get around the compression members, I made my own using some music wire, hammering one end flat then drilling a hole in the flat spot.
True marine grade plywood is much better than anything like exterior or cabinet grade plywood. It certainly shares many of the characteristics which distinguish aircraft plywood, such as thinner, more uniform veneers, and hot press gluing. It doesn't necessarily meet the standards of true aircraft plywood. However it may meet them. You'd have to either see if the source has guaranteed them to meet the MIL specifications which are used for aircraft plywood, which they very well may have, construct your own tests to verify the standards, or just trust that the kit supplies the correct materials. I presume you have an Aircraft Spruce catalog which lists MIL specs that their plywood conforms to. If you can't find reassurance that the plywood meets the aircraft specifications, I can probably find anything you need to verify that it does for yourself.
The magic "safe the trailing edges" machine... Before they were between 11/32" and 7/16"... now 11/32" - 3/8"
Perhaps a typo or maybe I'm misunderstanding or missing something? If you're talking about the aileron trailing edges, isn't the aileron material (RS-15) 3/8" X 1" X 3/32" ? Just curious.
Perhaps a typo or maybe I'm misunderstanding or missing something? If you're talking about the aileron trailing edges, isn't the aileron material (RS-15) 3/8" X 1" X 3/32" ? Just curious.
Lynn
Hi Lynn
Yes, my aileron trailing edges were quite uneven on the wider side (where the ribs are glued). Instead of 3/8" they were between 11/32" and 7/16". Got them back to 11/32" - 3/8", without disturbing the very rear 3/32". Quite a surgery though...
True marine grade plywood is much better than anything like exterior or cabinet grade plywood. It certainly shares many of the characteristics which distinguish aircraft plywood, such as thinner, more uniform veneers, and hot press gluing. It doesn't necessarily meet the standards of true aircraft plywood. However it may meet them. You'd have to either see if the source has guaranteed them to meet the MIL specifications which are used for aircraft plywood, which they very well may have, construct your own tests to verify the standards, or just trust that the kit supplies the correct materials. I presume you have an Aircraft Spruce catalog which lists MIL specs that their plywood conforms to. If you can't find reassurance that the plywood meets the aircraft specifications, I can probably find anything you need to verify that it does for yourself.
Tom
Thank you Tom for your input. I remember we discussed this issue already during the fuselage construction, which turned out Ok with the "kit marine ply". This time I was just a bit more insecure regarding its suitability.
Yes, my aileron trailing edges were quite uneven on the wider side (where the ribs are glued). Instead of 3/8" they were between 11/32" and 7/16". Got them back to 11/32" - 3/8", without disturbing the very rear 3/32". Quite a surgery though...
Cheers Reto
Thanks for the clarification. The numbers certainly didn't "click" for me, but now I follow you.
Finally some serious progress has happened in the shed. The first wing has turned out OK (about 1 month)... Nose and aileron ply to go. Put myself under an end of year deadline together with PPL renewal and lengthy local MM registration process...
Pics: Wing reversed, magic router again , tank section, nose rib section...
Looks great Reto! Really good that you're making such meaningful progress. And now you have defined a target! Brave man.
Wings look too beautiful to cover. Consider covering with transparent Tedlar fillm, like the Lazair. I thought about this, but chickened out. Your work would look like a sculpture.
Looks great Reto! Really good that you're making such meaningful progress. And now you have defined a target! Brave man.
Wings look too beautiful to cover. Consider covering with transparent Tedlar fillm, like the Lazair. I thought about this, but chickened out. Your work would look like a sculpture.
You'd need to check the specs on what Lazair used. This http://www.dupont.com/content/.....eneralProperties.pdf may help to compare with the properties of Dacron. about the same density, but no paint, which would save a lot of weight AND display the beautiful wood structure it covers. Prolly cheaper than Oratex, but I don't know prices.
Looks great Reto! Really good that you're making such meaningful progress. And now you have defined a target! Brave man.
Wings look too beautiful to cover. Consider covering with transparent Tedlar fillm, like the Lazair. I thought about this, but chickened out. Your work would look like a sculpture.
Bruce
What a great idea Bruce, but unfortunately I have already imported the PolyFiber products required for conventional covering (with great difficulties & costs). Therefore we should try to convince an other builder to do it...
Anyone else suffering clamp-envy? Also, is that a work shop or a hospital?
Bob, clamp-envy is a "sin"... I would be lost without them...
My workshop is my sanatorium, it keeps me sane. Not joking, I am suffering a chronic sinus disorder and have to keep dust exposure to an absolute minimum.
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