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ETLB Squawk Forums  /  miniMax, Hi-Max, and AirBike General Discussions  /  Drag Reduction mods
Posted by: beragoobruce, October 12, 2016, 2:46am
The board is a bit quiet, so it seems a good time to post some pix of various small modifications I've done to help reduce drag.

I took all these photos this morning after more tail-up taxiing - hence some of the oil stains, dead flies, etc.

Also , I'm struggling with the Mac photo resizing. The info on the computer doesn't agree with the size of the pic. Anyway, the pix may be of interest.

I'll just keep adding jpegs until I reach the limit upload - titles say what they are.
Posted by: beragoobruce, October 12, 2016, 2:48am; Reply: 1
Next. . .
Posted by: beragoobruce, October 12, 2016, 2:50am; Reply: 2
more. . .
Posted by: beragoobruce, October 12, 2016, 2:56am; Reply: 3
even more
Posted by: beragoobruce, October 12, 2016, 3:00am; Reply: 4
even more
Posted by: beragoobruce, October 12, 2016, 3:04am; Reply: 5
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Posted by: beragoobruce, October 12, 2016, 3:09am; Reply: 7
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Posted by: beragoobruce, October 12, 2016, 3:12am; Reply: 10
And the last one, taken about 3 hours ago - sunshine & nil wind at last!
Posted by: Wyoguy, October 12, 2016, 5:00am; Reply: 11
Great mods, great pictures and a really sleek looking Max!  It would be interesting to know how much difference each item makes.  I especially like the wing root mod.  Just for curiosity, I used aluminized aircraft tape on mine.  Unfortunately, there is enough movement in the wing that the tape cracks down the middle.  Of course, I am bouncing across a home made air strip, so maybe asphalt would be less of a problem.  I am anxious to see what performance you get with the MZ as well as your top speed.  I hope you have not taken yourself out of the Light Sport category!!  LOL!  
Posted by: Jetranger, October 12, 2016, 7:25am; Reply: 12
Some brilliant work here and fantastic attention to detail! I especially like the tail section, and the fairing on to the turtle deck. How did you do your strut fairings? I'm guessing foam covered in thin fiberglass cloth? What engine do you have? Will be very interested in performance specs!

Graeme M
Posted by: Tom, October 12, 2016, 11:36am; Reply: 13
Drag reduction is so much more productive than just adding a bigger engine.  Just considering the struts alone the drag reduction should be enough to
substantially increase performance.  You should get higher top speed and when throttled back a significant savings in fuel.  Really inspiring job.

Tom
Posted by: Kaliche Kid, October 12, 2016, 11:48am; Reply: 14
Excellent work! I plan to attempt the same, I just need an airplane first.  ;D
Posted by: PUFF, October 12, 2016, 11:50am; Reply: 15
another question:  did the dorsal fin help you any with low speed rudder authority?  ie tail up wheels on the runway....
Posted by: streffpilot, October 12, 2016, 2:32pm; Reply: 16
BEAUTIFUL!!!!!! I will be referencing this post often.
Posted by: aeronut, October 12, 2016, 5:40pm; Reply: 17
WOW!! Your build was impressive and so is your airplane. Great looking job. :)
Posted by: bigbrixx1, October 12, 2016, 6:16pm; Reply: 18
Nice pictures and nice job! Great ideas for me as time goes on!!! Beautiful Max Bruce!
Posted by: beragoobruce, October 12, 2016, 10:21pm; Reply: 19
Thanks guys!

Wyoguy, you can see how I did the root fairings in my build thread. I would have liked to have made a bigger radius, but there is only a small space above the top of the wing & the upper longeron. I don't plan to fly off asphalt, but the grass strip at my airfield is closed at present.  As to weight, here in Australia we can fly homebuilt single seaters of Max type wingloadings at up to a MTOW of 660lbs. Given how light the MZ202 engine is, and that - inspired by Bigbrixx1 - I have lost 22 lbs, I can legally fly at nearly full fuel despite my disappointing empty weight of 418lbs. I will post performance figures when I have them.

Jetranger, the struts are balsa wood bonded to struts, then encapsulated with epoxy & painted. I will pretty up the surface finish when I make the time to do it!  See my build thread for photos & description of the strut fairings.

Puff, I can't compare the effect of the dorsal fin to not having one because I put this on during my build. I can say the rudder authority is excellent, even at very low speeds. I can (& have) taxi the whole length of the runway (5000') with the tail up at speeds down to 20mph indicated - and that despite some serious - and assymetrical - toe-in on the u/c. At 30mph it's even better, but starting to float, so for practice to keep it on the ground I set my flaperons at the cruise position of 6 degrees up.

I'm just waiting for the potholes to be infilled & the grass to dry out and then hope to go for my first flight. Scary!!

Bruce
Posted by: ulbuilder, October 13, 2016, 12:06am; Reply: 20
Beautiful bird and lots of great ideas!
Posted by: Ricardo, October 14, 2016, 11:46pm; Reply: 21
What a great job Bruce! Are you also going to put wheel pants on your plane? It should improve the performance quite a bit.
In mine I've tested up to 90 mph without wheel pants although I'm not  much interested in top speed, I use my plane more as a trail bike than a speed bike  ;)
Posted by: Sterling Silver, October 24, 2016, 4:49am; Reply: 22
Very nice.

Thanks for the pictures.

I should be in my hangar by November and hope to be back to making small improvements in The Flag.
Posted by: fiebichpv, October 24, 2016, 2:36pm; Reply: 23
My, you are prolific!  What do you use as a gap seal between the horizontal stabilizer and the elevator?

Paul Fiebich
Posted by: beragoobruce, October 25, 2016, 12:50am; Reply: 24
Hi Ricardo

I'm not putting wheel pants on at the moment because I step on the top of the wheel before using the fuselage step to get into the cockpit. I may make some wheel fairings later, but they will need to be light & strong. So not made using chopped strand mat with lots of resin.

Hey Paul, good catch! For the gap seals I'm trying to find some thin flexible Mylar. I would use this bonded to the forward surface & overlapping the moving surface (elevator & rudder). And leave a gap at the hinges to be able to check the pins! No luck with sourcing suitable plastic sheet at the moment.

Plan B is to use self adhesive foam rubber draught excluder tape between the two spars.

Bruce
Posted by: Arthur Withy, October 25, 2016, 1:05pm; Reply: 25
Nice...very nice Bruce.....Great to see the Rego number as a 95:10.....now mine is 1336...so we have a few aircraft inbetween..LOL

cheers Arthur
Posted by: Paul Clift, October 26, 2016, 7:56am; Reply: 26
Hi Bruce,
I have thin white mylar sheet that is 0.2mm thick. I use it to make control surface seals for my glider. It is actually electrical motor rewinding insulation and should be available from any electric motor rewinder. I cut it into strips then heat it and then pull it thru an alloy form to set the curve. Other thicknesses are available. Let me know what length and widths you are after, I may have what you need. I have enjoyed following your progress and I am looking forward to the first flight reports.
Paul
Posted by: beragoobruce, October 26, 2016, 11:31am; Reply: 27
Thanks Paul - good tip, and a kind offer.  I will try sourcing locally now I have an idea what to ask for. If I can't find anyone, I may get back to you - cheers!

Bruce.
Posted by: Paul Clift, October 26, 2016, 11:39am; Reply: 28
Hi Bruce,]
If you dont get very far PM me your address and I will snail mail a sample to you,
Paul
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