My 4A084 engine arrived this morning ;D!

Pictures coming soon.

Since I have the week off I was also able to get a good start on my build table today.  Got all the 2x4 cut and will continue later this week.

Quoted from aerowerx

My 4A084 engine arrived this morning ;D!

Pictures coming soon.

Since I have the week off I was also able to get a good start on my build table today.  Got all the 2x4 cut and will continue later this week.

Congrats!

That is great. Looking forward to the pictures. :)

Congratulations! Keep your engine  enclosed and sealed after its  initial inspection. You never know how long the building time is going to last.
I bought my engine  with my kit and after 6.5 years it was ready to fire up  :o

Quoted from Ricardo

Keep your engine  enclosed and sealed after its  initial inspection.

"Sealed" is a relative term.  In this case, it has been sitting around long enough that the plywood crate is starting to crumble.  My guess is that it was probably stored outside.

Pictures forethcoming....

Engine pictures....

More Pictures...

haven't got the hang yet of how to attach pictures and add comments.

Anyway, what I was going to comment on...

It was manufactured in August 1990, and the seller included all the manuals on CD.  It also came with an original paper service manual.

Note the corrosion on the magneto and the rusty screws.  All those screws will have to be replaced (with stainless??).  There is a lot more corrosion on the heads.  Any ideas on how to clean it up?  It appears to be just on the surface.  I removed it from the magneto with a plastic 3M pot scrubber, but the surface now appears pitted.

I am also considering replaceing all the hoses.

Also note the John Deere Flight Line Tug with runway mowing option ;). (Yah, right...wish I did have that much land!)

That's my brother-in-law in the background in one picture.  Finally got him to remove his "divorce debris" so I will have more room for my build!

Index to pictures:

First group:
1.  Crate (already opened)
2. Inside crate
3. Data plate  "DOB" Aug 1990
4.  Airfilter on right, choke control knob middle, governor on left.  I think the red capplug on the left is for a tachometer cable???

Second group:
1. Inside the shroud.  Magneto on upper left, fan on right.  I think small red capplug (left center) is the fuel input to the fuel pump???
2.  Corroded magneto---surface corrosion only, with a little bit of pitting.
3.  Me  (and the brother-in-law cleaning his stuff out)

i would replace anything rubber....hoses, plug wires, grommets, etc.   i did that and my engine was new in 96.  i would also replace any easily accessable gaskets...valve cover, etc.  for corrosion you can use a VERY mild acid like aluminim cleaner.  you can even try vinegar or lemon juice.  i use those on corroded electical connectors. you just have to be very careful with it. if yu are squeamish about using acids....a wire wheel on a bench grinder. then spray with clear lacquer.

Where did you find this engine and how much did you pay? After you mentioned this engine in a different thread I did some googling on these types of engines and it sounds good! I read some suggestions to make it lighter also...such as changing the oil pan to aluminum.

Quoted from 153

Where did you find this engine and how much did you pay? After you mentioned this engine in a different thread I did some googling on these types of engines and it sounds good! I read some suggestions to make it lighter also...such as changing the oil pan to aluminum.

I got it from The Machine Shop in Lubbock, TX email d a v i d (at) t o n o n . o r g

I don't know if he has any more or not.  There was one other person on this forum that bought one at the same time.  The price was $850 plus $420 shipping.  Your shipping should not be too much difference.

Saturn Surplus in PA also has a few, but wants $1850 before shipping.

I don't know what is involved in changing the oil pan.  Someone mentioned that the oil pick up for the oil pump was molded into the thing.  Since I haven't looked into it I can not say how you would make it work.  But I do think that you would want an external oil cooler.  In fact, that might be a good idea even with the stock oil pan, but that would add even more weight.  I'm not an engine expert, but the 125 pounds (after weight reduction) still seems a bit heavy for the horsepower, compared to other engines, so evey little bit you can remove helps.

Quoted from aerowerx

There was one other person on this forum that bought one at the same time.  The price was $850 plus $420 shipping.  Your shipping should not be too much difference.

That was me.  My shipping was only $250.  However,  I had it shipped to a business address here in the  Alexandria/Pineville Louisiana area.  A local small power equipment store with a forklift;  I know the owner.

Quoted from The Termite

My shipping was only $250.  However,  I had it shipped to a business address ....

You are also quite a bit closer to TX.  I was tracking the shipment.  Mine went from Lubbock to Dallas to Memphis to Columbus to Mansfield to here.  Three different shipping companies were involved.

Photodoctor lives just up the road in the next county, so his shipping should be not much different than mine.

Hi All;
I want to mention a VERY important note here. You can loose more weight by removing the oil filter. Just change the oil every 25 hours like a Continental A65.
Now, Here is the note and it is important!!!! If you remove the oil filter you must connect the 2 hose fittings together on the case. There are labels on the fittings on the case that read "in and out". That in itself sounds OK, BUT they mean IN TO THE FILTER and OUT OF THE FILTER. Out on the case is the input to the main engine oil gallery. In is actually the out put of the oil pump. There is no internal connection of the pump output and the engine main oil gallery. You must connect them both together with a hose. If the bend is tight, put a spring inside the hose to keep it from kinking.
Just thought you might want to know this.
Bob

Quoted from Bob Hoskins

....There are labels on the fittings on the case that read "in and out". That in itself sounds OK, BUT they mean IN TO THE FILTER and OUT OF THE FILTER. Out on the case is the input to the main engine oil gallery. In is actually the out put of the oil pump. There is no internal connection of the pump output and the engine main oil gallery. You must connect them both together with a hose......

My engine is the -4 version, which has an automotive style spin-on oil filter.  Does this still apply?

Quoted from TreeTopsTom

Thanks for the photos & information on the Engine aerowerx....

By the way, last weekend I bought my wife a new digital camera for her birthday. ;D

Hi aeroworx;
Yes.
Bob

Thanks, Bob!

That would also be a good place to plumb in an oil cooler, I would guess.

Hey aerowerx;
That is exactly what I did. Worked great too.
Bob

Looks nice, Bob!

A few questions...

How did you clean your engine?  Anything other than some elbow grease?  Do anything to keep the white corrosion from coming back?

Where did you get your engine mount, or did you fabricate it yourself?

What are the details on your PSRU, and what are the benefits on this engine?

Quoted from aerowerx

Looks nice, Bob!

A few questions...

How did you clean your engine?  Anything other than some elbow grease?  Do anything to keep the white corrosion from coming back?

Where did you get your engine mount, or did you fabricate it yourself?

What are the details on your PSRU, and what are the benefits on this engine?

Yeah,  what he asked. 8)

A local guy who owns an auto restoration & speed shop, and is also a pilot & fellow member of EAA, tells me that I should dump the magneto ignition, carb/intake system, and stock exhaust.  He says he can build me a very light weight low restriction intake with EFI, lightweight 4-2-1 exhaust, AND replace the current ignition system with programable electronic ignion for not much money.  
He's saying the advantages are: significant weight reduction, better fuel efficiency, a bit more horsepower(45-50 peak, 38-40 continous), and because it's EFI not carbs, little need for carb heat.

Thoughts?

And Bob Hoskins,  any pics you would post here, or email me, of your engine and mount would be most humbly appreciated.  I'm gonna need all the help I can get..... ??);  I'm used to working on tractors(grew up on a cattle farm) and such, where weight is not really an issue.

Hey all;
I will answer all the questions, but will be a little while. I am in the middle of a major on my A65. need to get it back in my Chief. My engine and Harless"s are twins. I did the machine work and he did all the testing and "tweeking". He has put more hours testing than I had machining, LOL. The PRSU only needed a few adjustments.
Termite, I would suggest that you get an estimate on the modifications, sounds like a lot of bucks to me. A new mag from Saturn Surplus should last about 900 hours, they say. Our engines are "box stock" and run great. Very simple and no electrical system needed. I don't think you can get much better than about 2.5 gal/hr.
Anyhow will be back with more info later, might be tomorrow.
aerowerx, I glass beaded the engine external parts when I overhauled it. DON"T DO IT, LOL. It took hours to clean that stuff out. I had all holes plugged and everything that didn't need glass beading covered, and the stuff got in any way. Just clean it good and give it a nice paint job if you like.
Bob

I think the oil cooler idea is a great one.  

I suscribed to the Yahoo 4AO84 group discussion thread recently, and have been reading them.  Lots of excellent info there,  and one of the things mentioned is that tweaking the 084s to over 50 horsepower, except for takeoff(1-2 minutes), can overheat the heads and risk warping them.  Oil coolers are recommended.

Carb icing is also mentioned as a real problem with the stock carburetors.

I don't have an oil cooler but I might have to get one whenthe weather gets hotter. I can't run WOT very long on takeoff but after I get to cruise and level flight, I can run WOT without it getting hot..

Carb heat is necessary but I've only had to use it a couple of times..

Hey All;
OK, here are a few prints. It will take a few posts to get the info here. Just a note. If you should use one of the prints to make something, you are automatically assuming responsibility for what you use it for and accept the fact that it is your choice to use it or not. I designed these parts for me and no one else. You all know I had to do that.
In the next post I will try to put some pictures here of the mount on the engine. The mount was made for the Himax.
Bob  

I don not have a complete set of prints for the PRSU. Some parts were made as progress went along. I will post what I have, That will have to be tomorrow.
Bob

OK, here are some pictures. Right off, let me say this. You can not beat the HP to weight ratio of a 2 stroke. And they are reliable little engines, taken care of properly. This engine, the 084 was built by the Govt. to run 24 hours a day at 3600 RPM. It is a strong reliable engine. It can be rebuilt CHEAP. When you buy a piston, it comes with the ring set, piston pin, AND the rod. Last I saw, it was $21.00. Check out the cost of a Rotax 503 piston or the Hirth F23. Straight drive it swings a Tennessee prop 54 X 27 at around 3100 static. It flys the Max OK. It is 50 horses, but won't climb like the 2 stroke. Now with the PRSU on it, it swings a 66" prop. It climbs very well. Here is where Harless should tell you about his experiences. So, if you want a 4 stroke, this little engine will do fine and be easy on gas too. DO NOT compare this to a VW engine. It is much smaller. It is 1378cc and the average VW is 1600 or 1835cc. Can't beat the cc's. By the way, the ratio on the PRSU is 1.6666666 to 1.
Bob

Bob,

Many many thanks for the info.   :)

BTW,

Apparently the Arrowprop company in Oklahoma  makes a redrive for the Teledyne 084:  http://www.arrowprop.com/rdrive.htm
1.69:1     pretty dang close to what you constructed.  8)

Hey Termite;
That is great news and well worth the bucks. Mine cost a heck of a lot more to make. Thank you for that info, LOL. Might be a good idea to see if they make prop hubs too.
Bob