OK... I was not really ready to start on a project, but I could not let this one slip away. It was close by and the price was right (I may have stolen it... time will tell). I have made a couple of posts about the plane, but this will serve as my (probably protracted) build log.
It is a 1700H because it will be powered by a Hirth 2702 instead of the more common Rotax (what you guys use today, I have no idea).
I had a heck of a time finding hangar space anywhere near me, so I actually ended up buying a greenhouse for a temporary enclosure. My wife was okay with it once I told her we could use it for tomatoes and strawberries after the plane moved out.
So, now I will start gathering tools (pinking shears), some T-88, and some Plexiglas for the windscreen and get to work.
First up will be a detail inspection of the components using a bluetooth borescope on a long stick (ain't technology great?).
It turns out that the greenhouse sucks. It has holes in it from falling branches and apparently squirrels cannonballing onto it form trees (there is a hole in the fabric with no debris under it... suspicious). Then my neighbor kid got inside, and then freaked out because my daughter zipped the door. So the neighbor kid (who has some behavior problems) ran through the side of the enclosure... Like a cartoon...
So this weekend I am going to move Chibi Kaze under my deck (on the 2nd floor) and use tarps (and eventually coroplast) to keep the deck drippings off Kaze.
depends on if the roof can take the sheets. If the tubing is stout enough, it might. Otherwise, it may collapse in a wind and ruin your work.
Again... Excellent advice. Thank-you.
I read over the old build log, and it dawned on me that the fabric on my plane is 24 years old. It looks good and feels good... But I will be purchasing a Quicksilver tester (I am not spending $500+ on the Maule tester). But I figure in the end, I'll be re-covering the wings and the tail feathers. Something I have not done since A&P school.
An easy way to test your fabric is to put your thumb half way between the ribs and push like your trying to touch the other side of the fabric. Sailcloth that is exposed to too much UV radiation will rip. A fabric covered himax should see slight distortion of the wood but no cloth failure.
Last time I used a punch-tester was when I did a annuals on a J-3 and a Luscomb back in the 1990's. We used the obscenely expensive Maule testers ($500? really?). It's a shame to have to undo some really good work. The fabric is rib-stitched, tight as a drum and really smooth. I was planning to order the Quicksilver tester this weekend but got tied up helping a friend close up after an Annual/pre-purchase inspection of his Baron (B55) - I'm pretty sure the buyer is going to put down the money - it's a really nice Baron.
Back on topic... I need more time to play with my own plane.
Last time I used a punch-tester was when I did a annuals on a J-3 and a Luscomb back in the 1990's. We used the obscenely expensive Maule testers ($500? really?).
It costs more than the wing, LOL. If you manage to get a less expensive fabric tester, please let us know the source.
Quicksilver Aircraft, ultralight fabric tester. Air Tech Inc. part #60033. The last price I saw was $57. There is a video of it on u tube. Basically it is a belt tension tester with a special tip on it.
Chuck Slusarczyk once described how he tested fabric on the CGS Hawk wings. He used a regular pencil with eraser (1/4" dia). Place the eraser against the fabric and place a 10 lb weight on top of the pencil. If it doesn't go through the fabric is good. This method puts about 50 lb/sq. in. on the fabric.
Seems like the QS tester will punch through at a much higher value than the pencil eraser. If the tester tip is 1/8" it will put about 200 lb/sq. in. force on the fabric. Is that right?
Thanks Aeronut and Nathan. I was looking for just this tester. Will order one soon. My fabric is 21 years old, but seems to have been stored well ( out of sunlight ) by previous kit owner. But I just want to be sure. Charlie, the pencil method is also good to know.
Heres an honest question. My fabric appears to be about.. My plane is 29 years old, but I think the fabric is less then 20. It's been indoors its entire life with no direct sunlight, and its been painted.
Is there any possible way at all it could have deteriorated, or no? I'm going to test it anyway, but I just want to know if I should actually be worried.
Also, to re-ask from before, is that pencil diameter test okay? Because I can totally just.. use a spring scale that I already own and 3d print a pencil diameter head for it.
Put your thumb between two of the ribs and push until.you touch the other side of the fabric. I did this test many times on my pup. Sailcloth exposed to too much UV will rip. Latex painted fabric will leave a thumbprint and spring back
Wow, it can really flex that much? Mine is so taut that I don't feel like I'd be able to push that far before it crushes the ribs. Or am I just babying the wing?
Quick question, because I did not see it in the parts list... Mini- and Hi-Maxes use 1.8 oz Dacron covering, right?
<update> Found it... 1.6 oz Dacron... it's a little buried, and I'm a little spoiled by Lockheed work instructions. I s'pose 1.8 will work if I'm willing to take a bit of a hit on weight. </update>
I sure hope that bringing up OLD threads around here is acceptable. I'm curious how this project has gone over the last couple of years? Ironnerd, can you give me an update?
For the record, I'm brining home an old (not sure how old yet) Hi-Max tomorrow. So, I'm digging for as much information as possible as I know I've got a huge restore on my hands.
Ok. So, I am in an actual hangar. My hangar mate's plane is connected to a ceiling winch so I can lift it up out of the way to work on my plane.
The original builder took a short-cut and used non-aviation-grade mahogany plywood. How do I know? Because it all delaminated. So today I pulled the crap plywood of of the Starboard side of the plane. It came of pretty easily, but now I have a thin layer of veneer glued (epoxied) to the wood frame.
I am thinking of making a fixture to sand the epoxy away and leave clean wood for attaching the new, aircraft-grade plywood. But I figured I would ask if anyone knew of another method.
Well... the "wrong" wood was easy to identify. Give it a tug and it comes off the plane leaving only a layer of paper-thin veneer stuck to the fuselage. The correct stuff didn't budge a bit. I'm not sure its progress... but my plane is completely naked now. I have also entered into negotiations with my wife over the use of her DA sander. Safety glasses and respirator are already on hand.
20230812_130111 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/143850158@N07/][/url]
Logged
Looks like the previous owner was gonna mount a vw. 
