I have been looking at several different designs to build and I keep coming back to the MiniMax. I have also considered going experimental but just don’t want the hassle. I have also considered using the Polini Thor 250 as it would be plenty power but mounting will be an issue. I have decided I want to go with the MiniMax 1100 or 1030 and the Hirth F-33. Which one could be built lightest? I’m thinking the 1100 unless I’m missing something. If I build the 1100 what would be the best way to mount the engine? In the plans for the 1030 there is an optional fuse layout for the F33, should I use that layout for the 1100? I would prefer to mount it upright but guessing there are issues with that. I am going to keep everything as light as possible and hope I end up with a nice flying Max. Any input on this will be appreciated. Thanks, Doug
Perhaps this doesn't address your questions directly, but I built a 1100 with the wing design and light tail of the 1030. I powered it with a 277 Rotax. I haven't personally flow the plane but my "test pilot" said it flew very nicely on both occasions he flew it; about 20 minutes the first time and about 40 the second time.
The downside of building with a 277 Rotax is that they have been out of production for many years. It took me considerable time to find the used one that I eventually rebuilt/freshened myself. They are out there, but with patience they can be located. I think I ended up with only about $400 or $500 in my 277 using a 4-belt reduction unit rather than a gearbox.
With the 277 Rotax and keeping building light in mind throughout construction my MiniMAX came in at 246# empty weight. I was very pleased with that. It was borderline tail heavy so it is flown with a 1" thick piece of "pink" foam insulation as a backrest, which moves the pilot's weight forward and got the plane safely within the CG range. With a lighter engine the engine would need to be mounted further forward and I think the 1030 fuselage plan accomplishes that. I would strongly recommend calling David Cooper at TEAM and talking your ideas over with him, especially with the potential engines you're considering. I found David to be very helpful when I had questions, even though I did a scratch build rather than building from a kit. I did try to reciprocate his help by buying a lot of the bolts, nuts, washers and finally instruments through TEAM as a "thank you" for the help.
Best wishes on building a MiniMAX. It's a very rewarding experience; taking some "sticks" and thin plywood and building a real, flying airplane!
George, your post reminded me of yet another potentially relevant post regarding weight & balance. I believe it is your post number 111 on this thread http://www.lonesomebuzzards.com/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl/Blah.pl?m-1471033163/s-90/ that pointed out what was probably a contributing factor to my MiniMAX being on the tail heavy side. Post 101 I believe is also relevant and is part of the whole discussion that took place.
Yea, read through my balance issue George linked to.
My suggestion would be to build an 1100 fuselage and light tail from 1030. The turtle decks on the 1030 add weight so the flat top 1100 will make it easier to hit weight.
If I were to start over I would have built a flat nose max making it easy to mount any engine. Once the building, covering and painting was done I'd weigh her then pick an engine and add a cowl. That way if you change your mind and decide to register your not stuck with a tiny engine or if you build well and end up light maybe you can get a bigger engine and still do part 103.
The 28HP F33, with electric start, is 20lbs lighter than a 277. The 50HP F23, with electric start, is 20lbs heavier than a 277.
I second what lake- harley said about talking with David at TEAM. I built the 1100 with the light tail in it and have a 447 in it. It fly's very well but is over the weight limit. I used more silver on the wings then TEAM recommended at the time and I rib stitched . David has the experience to guide you through what you are wanting to do.
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